KENA HARDWOOD FLOORING
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Floating Installation

Preparation is  half  the job 

Subfloor
Hardwood floors are laid on a dry, flat, solid subfloor. However, they are not usually fastened to the subfloor, but fitted as a so-called floating floor. Boards can also be glued directly onto the subfloor. Suitable subfloors for a floating floor include concrete, slate, wood, plastic, linoleum and cork. Wall-to-wall carpeting must be removed.

The subfloor must be level. When measured with a 200cm ruler, the maximum allowed deviation is 3mm. If the deviation exceeds 3mm, the floor must first be leveled using either a suitable filler or board. An old wooden floor should be nailed down if necessary to make sure it is solid. You can wash the old floor first to avoid any unpleasant odor.

The relative humidity of a concrete floor without a moisture barrier must be less than 60% and with a moisture barrier, less than 80%. To check the humidity, either use a hygrometer, or place a plastic sheet (PE) firmly over the floor for 4-5 days. If there are water drops underneath the plastic sheet or if the concrete has turned darker, the floor is too moist. A moisture barrier (plastic sheet, PE) is recommended underneath the hardwood boards and the sound insulation material if the floor is laid on top of concrete, or above damp spaces such as sauna, washroom or basement.

Before laying the boards
The room temperature at the time of installation should be at least +18°C. Keep the packages in the room where you want to install the boards for a few days. Open the packages as you go along, not beforehand.

Sound insulation
Always place a sound and damp insulation material between the hardwood boards and the subfloor.

Expansion allowance
As wood expands and contracts somewhat with changes in air humidity, remember to leave a 10mm gap between the wall and the boards, and around pipe penetrations etc. Cover the gap with skirting or cover strip. In larger floors, the gap should be 1.5mm per each metre crosswise, for example in a floor 8m wide 8 x 1.5mm = 12mm.

Expansion joint
If the floor covers a large, continuous area more than 8 metres wide, an expansion joint should be inserted into the hardwood floor. To make an expansion joint, do not apply glue on the board's long side, but make a so-called dry joint instead. Cut the boards crosswise and cover the seam with a strip, if necessary. The expansion joint should be placed under a threshold, into a corner or other suitable place.

How to choose the laying direction and the starting place
It is preferable to lay the boards in the direction of incoming light. If you lay the hardwood boards on top of a wooden floor, it is advisable to lay them crosswise.

Start from a solid wall. First check with a cord that the wall is straight. If the wall is not straight, draw a line matching the shape of the wall on the first boards, and saw them into that shape.

Laying tip
When fitting boards crosswise, in a narrow hallway, for instance, you can prevent the boards from buckling by cutting through the conifer plywood at the bottom at two or three places. Make the cut at an approx. 45° angle and only cut through the plywood.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR EASY INSTALLATION
 
Use a sufficient number of wedges to maintain the gap and to press the boards together. It is preferable to lay the boards in the direction of incoming light. When placing the boards on top of a wooden floor, we recommend that you lay them crosswise. Start from a solid wall with the groove of the first row of boards facing the wall.

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step 1

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step 2

1. Use a guideline to check that the row is straight. If the starting wall is not straight, draw a line matching the shape of the wall on the boards and saw then in that shape.
 
2a. Start the next row with a piece left over from the previous board. The end joints of boards in adjoining rows should be at least 50cm apart.

2b. Apply glue to the entire joint. Apply glue to the groove of the board through the nozzle but remember to keep the bottom of the groove clean.(Consumption of glue approx. 10-15m2 / litre).

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step 3

 
 
3. Use a 30-40cm striking block to close the tongue and groove joints. Never force the boards together. Place the board as shown in the picture above and work towards the end joint. This way you can ensure that the crosswise joint is tight.
 
 

LAYING THE LAST BOARD
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step 4

LAYING THE LAST BOARD
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step 5

 
4. Place the last board exactly on top of the one laid last. Take a short, tongued piece of board, press the tongued side against the wall and draw a line onto the board underneath following the edge. Saw the board along this line.
 
5. Tighten the board in place using a crowbar or other suitable implement. Use some protection between the wall and the tool.
Insert  wedges. 

DOOR FRAMES
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step 6

 
 
6. Architraves, and sometimes even door frames, need to be shortened. To do this, place a loose floorboard on the floor by the frame. Make sure you have the same leveling material under this board as elsewhere to get the correct height. Saw through the architraves using the board as base to make sure the board will fit under it.

SKIRTING
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step 7

 
 
 
7. Remove all wedges. Place a piece of board on top of the skirting diagonally towards the floor. Press the skirting down with your knee and nail it into place. Be careful not to tighten the skirting too much, or it will "lock" the floor into place.
 

THRESHOLDS
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step 8

 
 
8. Remember to leave room for expansion under thresholds as well. To do this , remove a piece of the threshold, or fit in a suitable threshold or edging.

Nail-down Installation

Tools and Accessories

  • Hardwood floor nailer (manual or pneumatic)
  • Rubber mallet
  • Tenon saw, circular saw or hand saw
  • Electric drill, with a 3/32 inch (2mm) bit
  • Claw hammer and nail punch
  • Square and measuring tape
  • Pry bar and 5 inch (12.5 cm) putty knife
  • Chalk line
  • Flooring screws
  • Construction paper or 15-lb. felt floor liner
  • Hardwood flooring nails (2"/5 cm) -- 1 box or 1000 nails per 200 sq. ft/18.6 sq. m
  • Screw shank finishing nails (2.5"/6.3 cm) or regular finishing nails
  • Filler stick and Touch-up marker
  • Broom and dust pan

Note: Be sure the flooring is delivered at least 48 hours before installation. Wood needs time to acclimate to your house. If you're remodeling, make sure the existing floor is secure. All floors are different, which means you'll need to do some research on the best way to prepare the surface. The boards need to run across instead of with the existing floor joists.

The subfloor should be constructed of 5/8" or thicker plywood, when installed over 16" center joists. Installation over concrete is possible and requires a specific method. First, the concrete must be tested for excess moisture. Next, a moisture barrier system must be added over the concrete, and a wood subfloor (minimum 3/4" plywood or sleepers) must be installed. Moisture content of any wood components for the wood subfloor should not exceed 12 percent.

Temperature and Humidity

The relative humidity level in your home must be maintained at 45 percent (40-50 percent) throughout the year. Hardwood flooring reacts to changes of relative humidity. It absorbs or releases humidity with the seasons. Consequently, its dimension changes. In the summer, when humidity is at its highest, it is absorbed by the wood, which then expands. The expansion causes the strips of wood to push against one another. This could result in "cupping". These variations can be minimized with proper ventilation, dehumidifying or heating.

In the winter, when the heating system is on, the relative humidity level in the house is much lower. The wood releases its humidity and contracts or shrinks. It is recommended to use a humidifier in order to minimize shrinkage effects.

For new construction or remodeling, the heating system must be operational, and the house must have been heated for a week at 71 degrees F. Plastering and concrete work must be completely dry (45 to 90 days old). Check basements and underfloor crawl space to be sure they are dry and well ventilated, in order to avoid damage caused by moisture. Flooring should be left to acclimate at house temperature for a period of at least 24 hours at the recommended relative humidity level.

Using a moisture meter, available from Husky Coat Direct, check the plywood (subfloor) moisture content. Moisture content should not exceed 12 percent. If the moisture content is too high, delay the installation and turn up the heating system, increase ventilation, or open the basement windows slightly.

The installer and/or owner has full responsibility for moisture testing to ensure that the wood subfloor and the concrete slab (when applicable) are within acceptable limits.

Preparation

For new construction and remodeling:

  • Remove baseboards and door sills.
  • Remove the old floor covering if applicable.
  • Screw the subfloor securely to the joists to prevent squeaking noises in the floor.
  • Using a hand saw, cut the bottom of the door frames 3/4-inch (1.9cm) in order to slide a hardwood strip beneath.
  • Make sure the floor is straight and level. Correct if necessary.
  • Make sure the floor is completely dry.
  • Make a sketch of the installation beforehand to avoid surprises.
  • Determine the direction in which you will lay the strips. Avoid the ladder effect by installing the strips parallel to the longest length wall of the room. It is also recommended to install them in the opposite direction across the joists or, if impossible, at a 45 degree angle.
  • Determine your starting wall and/or location.
  • Sweep the subfloor clean.
  • Install a 15-lb. felt floor liner or construction paper.

FIGURE A
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FIGURE B
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      1.       To get started, lay down 15-lb. felt paper or rosin paper.

      2.       Plan the floor avoiding the "ladder effect" by laying the strip  parallel   ( figure A) to the longest wall.

      3.      Chalk a line out from the wall at least 1/2" wider than a flooring strip,  leaving 1/4" minimum expansion space between the wall and the first strip (figure B).

      4.   Drill pilot holes for the nails 12" to 16" apart so as not to damage the strip when nailing.

FIGURE C
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FIGURE D
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      5.       Lay the tongue edge of the strip on the guide line. Measure and cut the strip to finish the row. Nail the first row by hand and use the extra to start the next row. Stagger the boards by at least 6" (figure C) to avoid clustering the end-joints.

      6.       Tap the next board tight to the previous board (using a "rubber" mallet to protect the wood) and then nail. Use a hardwood floor nailer for installation.

      7.       On the last rows, remember to leave 1/4" expansion space, even if you have to trim the last piece (figure D).

      8.       Ease the tongue in place. Drill the holes and nail by hand.

 

Hardwood Floor Nailing Tips

Here are a few tips to make your job easier, should you decide to use a manual hardwood floor nailer:

  • Prevent any scratches and indentations of the surface of the board by keeping the nailer plate (base) clean, free from nicks and scratches at all times, and also by putting down the nailer on the plywood or on a piece of cardboard, not directly on the prefinished floor.

  • By adopting a standing position while using the manual nailer, you will deploy more strength when you drive the nails in. Nails that are nearly embedded can be driven in place by using the hammer and a nail punch.

  • Hold the nailer firmly in place and hit the head of the nailer with the rubber end of the mallet.

  • Make sure the nailer base is squared and sits well on the edge of the strip to avoid damaging the edges of the strips.

  • Verify regularly the hardwood floor nailer is in working condition to prevent damages to strips.

  • Pneumatic nailer -- Air pressure should be adjusted adequately for each species of hardwood floor installed (always try it before using) and checked regularly.

 
Glue-down Installation
 
We don't suggest this type of installation for everyone, but there are some that can successfully install a hardwood floor over concrete using the glue down method. By following these suggestions and recommendations your project should become a successful one.
 

Getting That Starting Line Snapped

You won't find many rooms or houses that are truly square. It's not uncommon to have differences of 3/8" and more from one side of a room to another. To offset the difference, always think which is the main visual point. Start your layout square to that particular wall or make adjustments where the differences will hide under baseboard or other trim used. Out of square is not an issue if the flooring runs perpendicular to that area. A parallel wall lines to the flooring direction is where we need to be square.

Many specifications will suggest starting your hardwood installation from the longest exterior wall. However we realize this will not be the case at all times especially for those installing a few rooms.

 It's a wise idea to check how far out of square it may be before you start. Using a tape measure get a measurement from two opposite wall lines and compare the two numbers. Depending on the width of the material, our starting area should be 30-36" from the baseboard or drywall. In our example we're using a 3 1/4" width engineered product. We've multiplied 11 x 3.25 and added 3/8" for our expansion space that will be covered with shoe molding after the floor is laid.

Expansion isn't as critical with glued engineered products as it is with floating floors or nail downs, but you will need some area to get those last few rows into place.

Not all products are created equal. We suggest placing ten boards together checking for size. Where it may be 3" in width, ten boards may not equal 30" This is common with lower quality products as the milling is not as refined. It may be a good idea to add another 1/4" on top of our example of 36 1/8" Otherwise you may find yourself having to cut a smidgeon off with the last board to fit the parallel wall area.

Having marked two areas from our base on each side of the working area, snap a chalk line. This will become our starting line. In this case our helper was nowhere to be found so a full bucket of Bostiks did the trick. Once we have our starting line, double check how it looks on the opposite wall with the tape measure. It's also a good idea to check against the starter wall area as some walls or base may not be straight.

Oh, did we mention sweeping the areas first? Another contributing factor in glue down failures includes dust and dirt. For best results we recommend sweeping and vacuuming the areas prior to anything. Keep your working area clean and organized. Hardwood flooring will ding and scratch.  All it takes is one careless person walking over the tools and you have dings in your brand new floor.

Getting That First Area Laid

The starting area is the most important in any installation. If we're looking at a single room, the biggest concern is how square you are in that area. However, if the installation goes into other areas and your starting line is out of square to these areas you'll find yourself correcting as you go along. This is why we recommend a control line.

A control line is the reference point for the entire layout and should be utilized near the center. In this case find the longest parallel wall and set a chalk line halfway across the room or nearer to the center of the entire installation. From here we recommend making reference points in other areas checking to see how square we may be from our control line. Another word, measure away from the control line and get another chalk line set.  Check measurements against all parallel wall lines and make necessary adjustments.

Back to the starting area. Measuring out 36 1/8" from our base we've snapped our starter line. Once the adhesive is spread we're ready to work off that line and towards the baseboard. 36 1/8" in this example equals 11 boards at 3 1/4" each--plus 3/8" for the base or molding to cover.

Place your first row directly on the chalk line, proceeding to add a few more rows staggered as much as possible as shown in the image to the left. Once you have a few rows started use some scrap pieces to be used as backer boards to keep the installation from moving around in the adhesive. Attach them with concrete cuts nails, preferably smaller ones or 3 1/2 penny.

Working from left to right continue to fill in the area where the adhesive had been applied. Don't forget about that can of mineral spirits and a rag. Your first experience with this adhesive will not be a treat and it's important to cleanup as you go.

Depending on how well you've spread the adhesive you may get some ooze over the starting line. When spreading try to keep the adhesive 1/4" away from the line. If you should happen to stop for a day or two, make sure the area and the groove is clean of any excessive glue.

Trying to engage the next row with a dried glue clog can be a frustrating experience. Always check before spreading any additional adhesive. Pictured is an example of some dried adhesive that had to be cleaned in order to continue. Otherwise you will not get a tight fit of the old area to the new and gapping will be inevitable.

If we've measured correctly, our last row should fit in nicely with about 3/8' left. Depending on the product quality it may be tight. Place the last full piece while utilizing a pry bar against the base or wall to pull the installation tight. Insert wedges into the area to keep the tight fit as shown below. At this point your starting area should be tight as a drum and should not slide out of place. However, keep a close eye on end joints for a few hours as they have a tendency to open up at will.

Wedges can be made from scrap pieces on the power miter saw you are using. We would suggest using a piece of cardboard behind the pry bar to prevent damage to the baseboard when prying.

Cleanup As You Go!
Once you've completed the starting area, go over it thoroughly with a rag and mineral spirits. There's nothing more frustrating then having to clean cured urethane adhesive once the job is complete. In this particular job, you need  to be attention to cleaning as you go,  spend few hours on cleaning spots that you missed or glue that got tracked from one spot of ooze to another.
 
Continuing the Installation
Once our starting area is complete remove our starter boards very carefully and measure out another area to be worked. Use whatever measurement you find more comfortable. 24, 30, or 36"(based on 3" width) away from the original starter line. Get another chalk line going and spread the adhesive again.

 

Knee Pads and Other Stuff

Obtain padded cloth types. Those with plastic caps will scratch your new hardwood floors. It's also a good idea to shake out any grit that may have been collected each time you put them on. Guys, all it takes is one piece of grit caught on a knee pad and you may be sleeping on the couch the next few days.

Do you know how messy this adhesive is? By all means use your worst clothes and keep them separated from others when you're through with them for the day. You maybe think.."If this stuff is that messy, why don't I wear gloves?" Not that professionals have tried it, some may consider using  types used in restaurants or hospitals. Forget the heavy bulky ones, as your fingers will be millimeters from the adhesive at all times when laying.

What Kind of Trowel- Cleaning Tips

Trowels. Always follow the recommended specs by manufacturers. Typically for engineered glue downs, V notched trowels are suggested, but square notched ones as well, providing adequate coverage is followed. If you're not sure, measure how much area you've laid and divide by the number of gallons used. 45 square feet per gallon would be a safe range to stay within, but some manufacturers vary.

Sorry for hawking on this preparedness issue, but you'll find it will make your job much easier. If your installation extends over a period of a few days or weeks here's a neat tip in keeping the trowel clean. Duct tape the undersides before you begin, keeping away from the notches. At the end of the day clean as much as possible from the trowel. The following day all you'll need to do is rip the tape off and you're pretty much ready to go. However, you will have to clean the teeth from dried adhesive

Spreading the Adhesive
 
Alright then it looks like you're ready for that big moment. Now comes the fun part; getting that adhesive on the floor without making a major mess. With Bostiks there's a good chance once you open the container there will be a small film on top that cannot be used. It must be removed otherwise it causes clumping. Do so with a scrap piece of wood in the area you plan to spread. Remember, this stuff loves to ooze. Keep a scrap piece of cardboard next to the container where you can place the stuff once removed from the five gallon container.

Tilt the container allowing the adhesive to spill out. Careful--go slowly otherwise you'll have more than you want. Pour an amount, or one third that you'll need in the working area at one end. Having more than necessary can be difficult to spread as the adhesive is very thick in consistency. Use the trowel to stop the flow as shown in the image to the left. Move the glue bucket behind you in the working area or place it on a piece of cardboard out of the working area.

It's important to spread the adhesive in a consistent manner trying to avoiding misses and clumps or pools of adhesive. Not enough adhesive is another cause of failure with these types of installations. Having too much will cause problems when laying. Adhesive will squeeze between the boards, creating a cleanup chore you want to avoid.

Keep an eye on your working area. Clean any boo-boos immediately, including adhesive that may get on the baseboard or outside the working area.

Dry Laying- Fitting Around Obstacles

If your installation runs into different areas other than one square room, fitting around door casings and the like should be done before you spread the adhesive. Termed dry-lay by professionals, will prevent a lot of glue from getting into places you'd rather not want. This includes power tools. How frustrating it can be trying 3,4 and five times to get that one piece to fit right with glue all over the place.

We suggest planning ahead on the installation. Normally you'll want to spread enough adhesive that can be covered in an hour or so. This doesn't mean you have to do 30" or 36" areas all the time. If you're nearing an area that looks like a lot of intrigue cuts will be involved, measure and snap the chalk line a few boards short of that area and complete. At this time cut and dry lay the new areas. Once you have the desired fit, remove in an organized fashion (so you know what order to place them back) and proceed with trawling new adhesive in that area.

In one example, some area came two board widths shy of this floor outlet. Using a comparable template to cut around the floor outlet, we dry laid it, removed the pieces, spread the adhesive and continued. In this case the outlet was in the middle of the room. In this case the  first four rows of the new area started around the outlet. Work right and left instead of laying four complete rows across the room.

Keeping the Installation Tight-Minimize Gapping

Most DIY installations are obvious when looked at by a professional that does it everyday. A few very useful tips that will put you in their camp are how to install a tight floor and stagger the boards properly. Unfortunately some products may be milled so poorly our efforts may seem meaningless but we'll do our best.

Staggering should be considered at all times. Don't be distracted as it will happen once you start chewing the fat with your helper. Try not to repeat the location of end joints in the installation and keep adjacent joints as far apart as possible.

If possible don't work on a newly completed area until it the adhesive has had a chance to grab. This can take upwards of a few hours and more. Shifting weight and walking on completed areas will open up side and end joints unless you have the privilege of working with products that stay together more than others. 

During and after installing areas, keep a close eye on boards that may separate. Some products that are loosely milled will do so with ease. Keep a pry bar or wonder bar handy to close up end joints by prying carefully off the baseboard or drywall. Kicking them back into place is also useful, only if you're wearing sneakers free of grit.

Another invaluable tip is the use of wedges. Some of the better quality milled brands will make you look like a pro and won't need this procedure.

Once an area is complete, engage the wedge as shown in the image via tongue and groove. Anchor another scrap piece just behind it and attach with a masonry nail, tapping the wedge into place. This is the most useful method we've found for tightening up side gapping. Once everything is tight as you desire, use blue painters tape to keep it intact and remove the wedges carefully, not affecting the exposed edges of the completed sections. These pieces can be cut on the table saw at a preferred 30º angle.

Measuring That Last Board against the Wall

Actually there is no need for a tape measure here. Take the piece you desire to use in that area and line it up with the last row installed (on top) Using another board, place it against the baseboard and scribe a line on the board you plan to use. This is especially useful where walls are not straight or are bowed in and out.

Depending on how straight the cut is, a table or jig saw is the power tool of choice.

Preferred Appearances

There's nothing worse that seeing a transition piece where it does not belong. Highly visible areas should be addressed to provide the best appearance. In this case marble thresholds were used at every bathroom door opening. Depending on what may be common in your locale, these thresholds may not be used and an ordinary T-molding will work. In our example net fitting to the threshold was appropriate.

Look around at other areas where this method would look more attractive. Exterior door openings are another highly visible area. Placing quarter round or similar always looks unsightly. In some cases you can go under door thresholds with the installation by removing and re-installing them. Careful that it's sealed to the weather conditions once re-installed.

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